Imagine having speakers that not only deliver the vibrant energy of a live concert but also the immersive experience of a cinema right into your living room. That's precisely what the new Airmotiv X Loudspeakers are all about.
Designed with audio enthusiasts and movie buffs in mind, these speakers excel in clarity, range, and providing an immersive sound experience.
Let's dive into the Airmotiv X series together and check out how these speakers can seriously up your home audio game!
Think of the tower speaker as the rock-solid foundation of your audio setup. It's got you covered from those deep, rumbling bass notes all the way up to the crystal-clear highs.
Whether you're jamming out to your favorite tunes or getting lost in a movie, the XT1 brings a rich, dynamic sound that really brings your home audio to life.
Key Features:
•Three-Way Design and Folded Ribbon Tweeter for unmatched clarity and depth.
•Efficiency: 89 dB, making it highly responsive.
•Power Handling: Up to 200W, supporting dynamic sound reproduction.
•Frequency Response: 45 Hz to 27 kHz, capturing a wide range of sounds.
The XT2 tower speaker –it's a powerhouse when it comes to filling up bigger spaces with sound. It pumps out robust audio that wraps around you, creating this immersive bubble that's just perfect for when you're diving into a movie or getting absorbed in your music playlist.
It's all about taking your experience up a notch.
Key Features:
•Enhanced Bass Response from three 6” woofers.
•Power Handling: 250W, for impactful sound without distortion.
•Frequency Response: 40 Hz to 27 kHz, for full-spectrum audio.
Now, if you're aiming for the top tier of audio bliss, the XT3 is where it's at. This speaker delivers unmatched sound quality, which is why it's the go-to for serious audiophiles and anyone looking to kit out a large home theater.
With the XT3, every detail in the music or movie soundtrack is so crisp and clear, it's like you're right there in the studio or on set. Plus, its ability to fill even the biggest of rooms with rich, enveloping sound means no one misses out on the ultimate listening experience, no matter where they're sitting.
Key Features:
•Dual Midrange Drivers and a High-Definition Tweeter for crystal-clear audio
•Power Handling: 300W, ensuring powerful and clean sound.
•Frequency Response: 30 Hz to 27 kHz, for an expansive audio experience.
Need the right speaker for your small spot or want to amp up your big sound setup? The XB2 bookshelf speaker has got you covered. It's deceptively versatile, fitting just about anywhere and doesn't compromise on sound.
Plus, with its rotatable tweeter, you can direct that crisp, clear sound exactly where it's needed, making it ideal for everything from home offices to your home theater.
Key Features:
•Rotatable Tweeter, allowing for multiple placement options
•High-Quality Woofer deliver Emotiva’s signature sound
•Power Handling: 125W, suitable for a range of audio levels
•Frequency Response: 48 Hz to 27 kHz, for detailed sound across all frequencies
Now, when it comes to nailing those movie lines or ensuring your music's right at the heart of your space, center channel speakers are key.
They make sure that whatever's happening on screen comes through loud and clear, right where you're sitting. Center channels may even be the secret ingredient to keeping those subtitles off.
The XC1 might be small, but it makes dialogue pop in your home theater. Every whisper comes through loud and clear – a total game-changer.
Key Features:
•Rotatable tweeter allows the speaker to double as an LCR
•Power Handling: 120W, perfect for clear, dynamic dialogue.
•Frequency Response: 50 Hz to 27 kHz, ensuring vocal clarity.
Moving up from the XC1, the XC2 is a bit bigger and brings something extra to the table - enhanced vocal clarity and depth that's just perfect for filling up those medium to large spaces.
It takes what the XC1 does well and dials it up a notch, making sure every line and sound detail cuts through even in larger rooms. If you've got a bit more space to work with and want every word to be crystal clear, the XC2 is your perfect partner.
Key Features:
Rotatable tweeter allows the speaker to double as an LCR
Power Handling: 150W, for robust center channel audio.
Frequency Response: 45 Hz to 27 kHz, for detailed dialogue and center-stage effects.
If you want to crown your home theater setup, the XC3 is the king of the center channel speakers. Unlike the XC1 and XC2, which are perfect for smaller and medium spaces, the XC3 is built to dominate large rooms with its dynamic and authoritative sound.
It grabs the clarity and depth of the XC2 and pushes it even further, ensuring that every sound, every dialogue in your favorite blockbuster feels like it's happening right there in your living room.
Key Features:
•Rotatable tweeter allows the speaker to double as an LCR
•Power Handling: 250W, for powerful and clear center channel sound.
•Frequency Response: 40 Hz to 27 kHz, covering a broad spectrum of sounds.
The XA2 Height / Surround / Ceiling / Reflective Speaker is the cherry on your audio set-up sundae. This two-way speaker is designed with flexibility in mind, ideal for wall or ceiling mounting to create height and surround channels in your audio setup.
The best part? Its user-friendly bracket and mounting system make it straightforward to integrate into various room setups for an immersive sound experience.
Key Features:
•Rotatable Tweeter ensures flexibility for various system layouts.
We've explored the Airmotiv X Series, which revolutionizes home audio with its dynamic range and clarity. The XT1 and XT3 stand out, offering deep bass and crystal-clear sound that breathes life into any room, large or small. The XB2 and XC center channels complete the setup, ensuring every detail is heard, from whispers to explosions. With the XA2, your surround sound experience becomes fully immersive, wrapping you in audio from every angle.
The Airmotiv X Series caters to any setup, from a compact 5.1 to a full-blown 9.1 system, ensuring cinema-quality sound in your living space. Emotiva promises versatility and quality, aiming to elevate your audio experience to its peak. Stick with us as we continue to explore each model's unique features and applications, including a deep dive into crafting the perfect surround sound system.
Stay tuned for more blog posts that will break down everything you need to know to make the most of your Airmotiv X Series speakers!
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Let's explore some ideal combinations to help you choose the perfect system for your needs:
The BasX MC1 and XPA-7 combination is an excellent starting point for those new to high-end audio separates. This pair offers superb processing at an affordable price, along with high-quality amplification. It's an ideal stepping stone to more advanced processors, thanks to its XLR connections, providing a solid foundation for your audio journey.
Price Breakdown:
For those seeking the ultimate in 2-channel audio, the XDA-3 and Dual XPA-DR1 combo is our top recommendation. The XDA-3's exceptional Digital-to-Analog conversion and straightforward preamp functionality, combined with the XPA-DR1's superior amplification, create a system that offers a full Differential Reference signal path. This setup delivers Emotiva's most precise, natural, and neutral auditory experience.
Price Breakdown:
For an immersive surround sound experience, consider pairing the XPA-DR3 with either the XPA-4 or XPA-6. This combination ensures robust support for your system's most crucial speakers with the XPA-DR3, while the XPA-4 or XPA-6 brings Emotiva's legendary power to your surround channels. With the capability to handle nearly any speaker and the convenience of XLR connections, this combo is ideal for those looking to future-proof their system.
Price Breakdown:
For those who love both 2-channel stereo and surround sound, the Dual XPA-1 paired with either the XPA-5 or XPA-7 is a match made in heaven. The XPA-1 amps offer outstanding 2-channel monoblock performance for your front left and right speakers, while the XPA-5 or XPA-7 effortlessly powers your center and surround speakers. This setup is perfect for a versatile, high-performance audio system in your living space.
Price Breakdown:
For those who prefer the convenience of an 'all-in-one' receiver but don't want to compromise on performance, the MR1 and XPA-3 combo is an excellent choice. The MR1 handles processing and power for surround channels, while the XPA-3 does the heavy lifting for your system's LCR. This setup is not only powerful but also offers a pathway to future upgrades, allowing you to expand your system as your needs evolve.
Price Breakdown:
This holiday season, Emotiva invites you to explore these combinations and discover the ideal audio solution for your home. Remember, our tiered discounts make this the perfect time to invest in a system that will bring joy to your holidays and beyond.
]]>Follow along with Brent as he dives into what happens when you amplifier protects. What can cause protection, how to identify protection, and some basic troubleshooting tips to get your amplifier back up and running.
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Follow along with Brent as he walks you through features and setup options on the BasX MC1 13.2 Channel Dolby Atmos® & DTS:X™ Cinema Processor.
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If you would like to cover your speaker, or part of your speaker, with fabric, be sure to purchase the acoustically transparent fabric. Acoustically transparent fabric will allow the sound coming from the speaker to pass freely through, as opposed to blocking or absorbing the sound.
There are plenty of options for fabric that will work with speakers while disguising them, such as some of these options here:
https://bettersoundproofing.com/best-sound-absorbing-acoustic-fabric/
In-Wall speakers can provide a clean, open feel to any home theater by eliminating bulky or floor standing speakers by hiding the speakers in neatly in the wall! Here is an excellent resource for installing most in-wall speakers: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1exPJODQ7rs.
In-wall speakers can benefit the looks and feel of a room, which is probably why this style continues to gain popularity. However, In-wall speakers aren't as full of a frequency response as a traditional home theater setup with floor standing and bookshelf speakers. If you plan to have a home theater consisting of all or primarily in-wall speakers, keep in mind that you may need a subwoofer to compliment the low end in your system.
The Emotiva Airmotiv Vaulta speakers are a great in-ceiling or in-wall option and are available with both round or square grills as an optional accessory. They use the same sweet-sounding folded ribbon tweeters used in all Emotiva speakers, so they are a great option to blend your speakers into your room while still matching them to a more prominent front stage using Emotiva tower or center speakers.
Wiring in-wall speakers is another conversation altogether. Suppose you are unfamiliar with electricity, how it operates, and how to install it properly. In that case, we recommend reaching out to a local professional for help.
If you are looking for pointers on how to wire your speakers, here is a good link for referece: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vtaHpRITvo&t=0s
Similar to the In-wall speakers, in-ceiling speakers provide the same cleanliness and open feel to a home theater room. An additional benefit to In-ceiling speakers is, of course, Atmos!
But, Emotiva, Why are ceiling speakers an excellent option for an Atmos setup?
Great Question! ~ Ceiling speakers in an Atmos home theater system are used as height channels to add a vertical plane of sound. They're ceiling-mounted and well-placed to give immersive effects when the audio is encoded to fire above you.
This means not only do you benefit from an orderly, clean-feeling home theater, but you also get the added benefits of an atmos compatible setup! Again, remember that you may need a subwoofer to compliment the low end in your system.
Installing in-ceiling speakers is like hanging a can light and an in-wall speaker. Here is a link to a video that can give you some pointers on installing in-ceiling speakers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yf05iLVjGCU
If you are considering in-ceiling speakers, check out our popular Airmotiv Vaulta In-Ceiling speakers here:
https://emotiva.com/collections/loudspeakers/products/airmotiv-vaulta-in-ceiling-loudspeaker-pair
If you aren't able to install a true in-ceiling speaker for your height or Atmos speakers in your room, the Emotiva Airmotiv A1 speakers are a perfect, low-profile choice. These can be wall-mounted at the top corner of your ceiling or used as a reflective type Atmos or height speaker, giving you the same great effects, but without having to run wire through or cut holes in your ceiling or walls.
Hiding bookshelf speakers sometimes can be tricky and more complicated than in-wall or in-ceiling speakers. The easiest and most common way to hide bookshelf speakers is by placing a speaker in a cabinet with a perforated door. Other methods of hiding bookshelf speakers often require creative thinking.
You can create great D.I.Y. bookshelf speaker hiding spots out of materials you already have in your living room, such as boxes, drawers, or even books! Before placing your speakers on any speaker stand, please secure it to the stand, so it doesn't tip over or damage the speaker or the surrounding area!
Here is a great video that shows you how to do that:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3prKuU-vwAQ.
Also, our Airmotiv B1+ speakers are excellent for a great sounding and performing pair of bookshelf speakers. The B1+ speakers can be wall-mounted using our ASM bracket, which is a good option if you are unable to use stands in your space:
Going a step above the regular in-wall speakers, you also have "invisible speakers" like the speakers listed here. These speakers allow you to completely cover your speakers in drywall and eliminate the "look" of having any speaker in your home theater room. Here is an excellent link on how they can accomplish that. You might ask- will the sound be affected? How can I install these speakers?
Yes, these speakers have a fabulous concept and sound good with the proper calibration tools. However, there are many downfalls to speakers such as these. As I mentioned before, how will the sound be affected? True audiophiles will undoubtedly hear a significant difference between a speaker inside a wall and a traditional speaker. Suppose you're not a huge audiophile and overlook the details in a specific signal.
You are still likely to hear a difference within the sound range of the speakers! You will not get close to the low-end or high-end notes that traditional speakers can achieve, limiting your home theater. Before going down the "invisible" speakers route, please ask yourself if it is worth losing audio quality!
]]>We’ve all been there: you just got some new speakers, and you can’t wait to try them out! You set them up in your space, queue up some of your favorite songs, and you’re ready to turn up the volume. That’s great, but remember that your speakers may not sound their very best when you first play content through them. It will take some time to get them sounding like they should.
New speakers arrive with moving parts, particularly in the woofers dedicated to mid and lower frequencies, and those woofers are often somewhat stiff after production. It takes some time and playback to get those woofer surrounds, and the spider in the driver loosened up.
So how do you break your speakers in? Go ahead and play some music through them. Just be aware that the sound may change slightly over time for the better. After 5 to 10 hours, the drivers should be loosened up, and your speakers should sound their best.
Breaking in your speakers allows any moving parts to loosen up, which will increase dynamics and overall response, allowing them to sound the way they are meant to sound. Often speaker manufacturers will suggest a specific break-in period, or you may read that you should play test tone material through the speakers constantly for days to break them in, and other more in-depth methods for speaker break-in.
But with most speakers, including any from Emotiva, you can break them in by just using them as typical for a few days. Any mechanical break-in should occur over just several hours of use, and we may also experience some psychological change as we get used to the sound of new speakers.
Breaking in your speakers is exceptionally straightforward: play music or any other content through them. It is as simple as that. The constant audio will help loosen up the drivers that might be stiff after the manufacturing process. To learn more, we recommend this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7WAMo2nwOYw
What do you do when you first get a new pair of speakers? Hook them up and play your favorite songs. But, what should you look for?
Everyone has their preference for testing speakers; there is no right or wrong way to test speakers. As long as you are satisfied with your speaker's sound output, there isn't too much testing left to do!
Have your ears test a pair of Emotiva Speakers.
]]>So you’re ready to set up your home theater, and you have a general idea of where your various speakers should go, right? Even if you have a good idea of speaker placement for surround sound, it is essential to consider the setup and choose your speaker placement carefully. Good speaker placement is key to experiencing surround sound as it’s meant to be heard.
Surround sound is just that - an aural experience that surrounds the listener. A surround sound setup that is appropriately calibrated is meant to envelop the listener and increase the realism of movies and music using multiple audio channels and speakers.
Having a surround sound system in your home will be the best way to have an immersive audio experience, whether you are watching movies, sports broadcasts, or playing games. Surround sound is designed to put you right in the action, meaning your couch could just as well be Middle Earth, Yankee Stadium, or Tamriel. Most content today is designed to be played back over a surround sound system for the best experience.
An an audio-video home theater receiver capable of at least 5.1 surround sound, if not 7.1 or higher, including height or atmos capabilities, or a dedicated home theater surround sound processor, such as our BasX MC1 or our XMC-2, RMC-1 , or RMC-1L, is the heart of a surround sound system.
If you are using separates, such as a dedicated processor, you will also need one or more external amplifiers to power your speakers. Remember that you will need one channel of amplification for each speaker you intend to use in your setup. Thus, if you have a 5.1.2 configuration, with five surround speakers, one subwoofer, and two height speakers, you will need seven channels of amplification – 5 for the surround speakers and 2 for the height speakers. Subwoofers typically have an internal amplifier already unless it is specified as a passive subwoofer. Click here to see all of the amazing amplifiers Emotiva has to offer!
Finally, you need the actual speakers to round out and complete your surround sound system. Click here to add Emotiva speakers to your shopping list as well!
The best way to ensure your home theater has everything adequately positioned is to reference the speaker placement guides from Dolby or DTS. These companies dictate the best placement of speakers in surround sound setups. The recording and mixing techniques used to create surround sound content are accurately portrayed on various systems.
https://www.dolby.com/about/support/guide/speaker-setup-guides/
If the speakers in your system are not placed correctly, the sound playback will not come through as intended. Think about it like a fun-house mirror. A perfectly flat mirror will give a clean reflection of the original light. A bent or angled mirror will ultimately present a distorted image or lack direct reflection.
Speakers positioned incorrectly in a room or assigned incorrectly from an A.V.R. or processor will be playing back sound that was not intended to come from those directions. This will be a confusing experience for listeners due to mismatching localization and spectral cues, even though there may still be sound coming from around the room.
The front speakers in a surround sound setup are responsible for most content playback. The front stage of a surround system is crucial to a good surround sound setup and includes the front right and left speakers and the center speaker. Typically, the center speaker is responsible for reproducing voices in film and television, and the front is left and right.
Check out our article on how to connect your speakers to your TV and sound system here.
In a 5.1 setup, you will have your three front stage speakers, with your center channel under the T.V. and the front left and right speakers to the sides of the screen. Then you will place the two surround speakers to face toward your ears out to either side of your sitting position. You will also place a subwoofer, the .1 portion of the setup, often somewhere on the floor of the front wall of the setup, either to the left or right of the screen.
https://www.dolby.com/about/support/guide/speaker-setup-guides/5.1-virtual-speakers-setup-guide/
In a 7.1 setup, you will set your front stage, surround speakers, and subwoofer in the same way as a 5.1 setup, and then you add two additional rear surround speakers behind your seating position, both to the left and right facing toward you at a 135 to 150-degree angle.
https://www.dolby.com/about/support/guide/speaker-setup-guides/7.1-virtual-speakers-setup-guide/
There are multiple Dolby Atmos sound configurations, and adding height speakers to your system can deliver an extra layer of immersiveness and realism to your viewing experience. Visiting Dolby’s dedicated Atmos website.
Typically, it is best to avoid positioning a T.V. in the corner and then placing a surround sound system around such a layout. This will result in multiple reflection points, affecting the overall sound quality. If it is impossible to put the T.V. anywhere else, the setup will follow the Dolby Atmos sound configurations as close as possible. Furthermore, this is where equalization (link to eq article if published) can help get the most out of your surround system, even if placement and the room orientation are not ideal.
When setting up a home theater system in an L-shaped room, the best approach is to place the speakers within only one of the room's two rectangle areas and avoid the remaining sections for speaker placement, such as around the 90-degree bend of the room. An L-shaped room creates asymmetrical room acoustics, so room equalization can help minimize issues within such a room layout.
A home theater set up in a large and open room can work, but a couple of essential details should be considered. First, understand that if you like to play your movies at a louder level, more volume is required in a large room to reach your desired levels. Thus, it is essential to power your speakers correctly and to know the capabilities of both your amps and speakers. Furthermore, due to the multiple reflection points in large and open rooms, room equalization is also essential to get your system sound at its best.
A great-sounding home theater system requires proper placement and setup of multiple speakers. Familiarizing yourself with Dolby’s recommended placement guides, and choosing appropriate components and speakers, will help you create an immersive surround sound system. We are here to help with our line of home theater separates, such as our processors and amplifiers, will help you build the heart of a great system, and our excellent Airmotiv speakers will immerse you in whatever you are watching.
]]>A great set of speakers can be quite an investment, and it’s essential to keep them performing their best. Cleaning them regularly will help your speakers continue to sound great throughout years of ownership.
When it comes to cleaning your speakers, it’s essential to set up a proper cleaning schedule while also understanding what the exterior of your speaker is made of and choosing the correct cleaning method accordingly.
If you neglect your speakers, dust and debris can eventually negatively affect the performance of your speakers, so taking time to gently clean will help you get the most out of your speaker investment.
Speakers and dust don’t play well together, and neglecting regular cleaning for your speakers can result in layers of dust that could eventually damage some of the drivers in the speakers. Furthermore, there may be times when something is spilled on the speaker cabinet, and it’s essential to go ahead and clean up any messes or spills before they have a chance to set in or stain the speaker cabinet.
Gently clean the exterior with a soft, clean cloth. Speaker grills: Gently remove and use a vacuum hose with a dust brush attachment. Speaker cones: Use a can of compressed air and a small brush. Terminal: Unplug all cables; vacuum and use Q-Tips to remove debris.
Avoid paper towels since these leave tiny unwanted fibers or particles on surfaces. Also, use two cleaning cloths to clean the speakers (one for wet and the other for dry). When wiping away dust, the dry cloth alone should suffice. But for anything grimier, use both.
Very gently and carefully - first, you need to start by taking off anything you have on that could potentially scratch or damage the cabinet. Some examples of this are jewelry, Belts (if you are standing cleaning a tower speakers), and any sharp objects. It would help if you then utilized a damp microfiber cloth to clean the outside of the cabinet.
If the speaker has a removable metal or plastic grill, clean it (front and back) with a soapy sponge in the sink or tub. Use a dust brush attachment on the vacuum hose for cloth grills to get any dust. If the grill cloth is exceptionally dirty, it may be necessary to use a mild cleaning solution on the cloth to remove any stains.
Cleaning the different drivers of the speakers takes extra care. It is crucial to be careful when dusting the delicate tweeter, as dome tweeters can easily be pushed in accidentally if too much force is applied while cleaning. First, try compressed air on the tweeter. At most, a gentle brush with a clean feather duster should remove any dust from the tweeter.
Also, a duster can be used on the cones of the midrange and bass drivers. If they are exceptionally grimy, using a microfiber cloth may be necessary. If there is dirt caked on, it would be best to contact the speaker manufacturer to see if they recommend a cleaning solution for the cones. In almost all cases, cleaning liquids should not be used on the cones of speaker drivers.
For speaker and power cables, apply a scant amount of the electrical contact cleaner (Craig Pro Gold and Deoxit work exceptionally well) to one of the microfiber cloths and carefully clean each connector.
Are your speakers still as clean as when you first opened the box? That’s doubtful, but not abnormal! Just clean your speakers, and your sound stage will undoubtedly thank you!
If you're reading this article, chances are you are interested in upgrading your home theater and living room audio. To do this, you will need to connect your speakers to your T.V. somehow, but how?
The real question here is: How do you connect your pre-pro to your T.V.? Speakers are rarely connected directly to a T.V. unless the speaker is also a source such as the Roku Soundbar. In most cases, you will connect your speaker to an amplifier, processor, A.V.R., and your T.V.
In other words, you most likely will not be connecting your speakers to your television.
Depending on your T.V. and what Audio gear you have will dictate what cables you will need.
Generally, you will need:
You might need:
With a configuration from Emotiva and any separate component A.V. setup, you will need both an amplifier and a preamp to drive a pair of speakers. Since you would be connecting the T.V., processor, amplifier, and speakers, you will need all cabling types. ~ HDMI, interconnect cables (R.C.A. or X.L.R.), and speaker cables. The HDMI cables connect your processor or A.V.R. to your T.V. Interconnect cables (R.C.A. or X.L.R.) to connect your processor to your amplifier, and speaker cables connect your speaker to your amplifier!
Other ways to connect audio systems are all-in-one A.V.R. units or Bluetooth surround sound systems.
Receivers or A.V.R. units connect to the Tv very similarly to separate components; the significant difference here is that there is no external amp. The amplifier is integrated into the A.V.R., making a typical A.V.R. capable of processing the signal as a wall as providing power to drive speakers; hence the term, All-in-one unit.
Bluetooth Surround Sound systems are an entirely different subject. Bluetooth surround sound systems operate by sending data via radio waves instead of wires or cables. This offers a lot of conveniences. However, you may experience cacophony audio and audio drops in the signal.
Soundbars have speakers, amplification, and processing all built into the unit itself. Just plug your soundbar into your tv via an optical or HDMI cable, and that’s it.
Soundbar:
Soundbars are pretty straightforward, as the soundbar from Roku pictured above. You connect this unit to your T.V. via an HDMI connection, and then you are done. Your T.V.s signal will then be rerouted to the soundbar’s output. These units are extremely easy to operate but can pose problems and be very limiting when it comes to performance.
Speakers:
Speakers- The units that started this conversation! There are so many speakers out there that anyone can find a good speaker they enjoy at their price point. You will connect passive speakers to a powered amplifier and processor or A.V.R. unit, then connect to your T.V.
To connect passive speakers to your T.V. to receive surround sound, you will need to have a pre-pro / receiver unit connected to your T.V.; in most cases, you will combine these two units with just an HDMI cable. After doing so, you will need to connect your speakers to either an internal amplifier on the receiver or an external amplifier that you can connect to a pre-pro unit!
Subwoofers:
Subwoofers add a significant amount of bass to any setup when added to any home theater or stereo system! Typically, subwoofers are produced with an internal amplifier making it possible for the unit to amplify the signal it is given without an external amplifier.
Since subwoofers are so often found with an internal amplifier, most pre-pros, preamps, or receivers have a dedicated subwoofer output where you will connect your sub to your setup.
Amplifiers:
The first audio amplifier was made in 1906 by a man named Lee De Forest and came in the form of a triode vacuum tube. This particular mechanism evolved from the Audion, which De Forest developed. Unlike the triode, which has three elements, the Audion only had two and did not amplify sound.
Modern-day home theater amplifiers use a similar design to the Audion triode, or the first amplifier created. Of course, the amplifier has been updated and improved to be more efficient with a greater power amplifier output over the years. Class A/B amps sound better today than ever, given the significant improvements in transformer technology and component circuitry. Modern amplifiers have less distortion than older ones, and you get better performance for a lot less.
Processors:
This was touched on briefly in the “speaker” section of this Article~ Processors can be very complex machines, but connecting them to your T.V. is pretty straightforward! You will typically connect your processor to your T.V. using an HDMI cord. Most modern T.V.’s have HDMI connections. Suppose your T.V. does not, for whatever reason.
In that case, you would be able to connect a processor to your T.V using a different type of connection, such as an optical connection for two-channel stereo listening! How you would connect a processor to your T.V. largely depends on what input connections you have on your T.V.
How to connect speakers to T.V. with speaker wire?
You cannot connect speakers to your T.V.’s as it does not provide speaker outputs that can drive speakers. As we mentioned above, you will need either a preamp, amplifier, or both to connect a surround sound system to your Television.
Can I hook up old speakers to my new tv?
With the correct processor/amplifier combination, you can connect older speakers to a new T.V. with the right processor/amplifier combination. As long as you have the proper audio gear in your system, the limit to your connection options is endless!
Can I connect speakers to my tv without a receiver?
It is almost always required to connect a receiver to your T.V. However, sure, if you have a powered speaker with an aux input and a T.V. with an aux output. It will not be surround sound- only two-channel stereo, but this would be the only way to do this, and most T.V.’s don't have an aux output anymore.
Check out Emotiva and Explore Audiophile-Quality Speakers
Emotiva asked a simple question: “Why can’t we have amazing audio and video sound at prices that don’t threaten our mortgage?” As high-end audio chased an ever-shrinking market with ever-more-costly gear, the price of sonic nirvana shot out of reach. New enthusiasts shook their heads and thought, “You know, a soundbar and a receiver may not be that bad.”
If you are looking to upgrade your speakers for your system, we just happen to have incredible performing loudspeakers at an incredible price with our Airmotiv series. Click here to check out the ever-expanding selection to take your system to the next level. If you are looking for an amplifier or processor as well, have no fear. We carry pretty much everything you will need from start to finish with your sound system.
Check out our full product lineup here
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An equalizer is either software or hardware that will adjust the loudness of specific frequencies when playing back music.
While the human ear can hear sounds that range from low frequencies of about 20 Hz to high frequencies of about 20 kHz, everyone varies in how well they can hear certain frequencies and what types of frequencies sound pleasing to them. Most adults will not be able to hear any frequencies higher than 15-17kHz.
Reference: HUMAN AUDITORY RANGE
Music is often engineered to sound best on a wide variety of audio systems. However, because everyone's hearing capability varies and because audio systems and setups differ significantly, it can sometimes be necessary to add sound equalization (also known as E.Q.), or equalizer settings, to music playback to help ensure that the music not only sounds great on a specific system but also is tailored to the ear of the listener. This is where equalizers can be helpful to set up your system to sound its best and meet your preferences.
When talking about frequency ranges, it is helpful to break down what frequencies fall into the low range, mid-range, and high-frequency range.
From about 20 to 60 Hz, the lowest range frequencies in music are reproduced by subwoofers or woofers in a full range speaker.
Above the lowest range are the frequencies from about 70 to about 300 Hz, which are also reproduced by woofers in a speaker. The upper range here falls into the low-midrange. For example, at Emotiva, speakers with dedicated midrange woofers are typically crossed over from 250 to 350 Hz, depending on the speaker model.
The midrange frequencies stretch from 300 Hz to 6000 Hz, ranging from 300 to 600 Hz, being the lower mid-range and 2000 to 6000 Hz making up the upper mid-range frequencies.
At Emotiva, 3-way speakers with dedicated midrange woofers will handle the lower to middle range of these frequencies, and the bass woofer on our 2-way speakers. Also, our Airmotiv folded ribbon tweeter is often crossed over around the 3000 Hz range depending on the speaker model, and it will handle the frequencies above that range.
Typically, frequencies above 6,000 Hz would be categorized as high-frequency sounds, up to 20,000 Hz for music reproduction.
Reference:EQ Frequency Cheatsheet
Preferred listening levels vary from person to person; someone may want to listen to music at a louder volume or a higher decibel level, and someone else may like music at a quieter background level. Softer music is typically around 60 dB, which is about the sound level of human speech, and up to 80 or 90 dB for loud music, comparable to a garbage disposal or an approaching semi-truck
Reference: Comparative Examples of Noise Levels
If sound equalization is necessary for your system, the settings will vary significantly from system to system. For example, if your system seems to lean towards a colder or bright sound, it may be necessary to slightly adjust the E.Q. for some of the upper midrange or high frequencies within the 3000 to 20,000 Hz range.
However, if your system sounds too boomy or bass-heavy, it might be beneficial to lower the decibel settings for the lower midrange and upper bass regions within the 100 Hz to 40 Hz range.
Ultimately, it may be necessary to experiment with different settings to see what sounds best in your system.
Setting up E.Q. settings for better bass depends on your room and your system, and whether or not you are running a simple 2 channel setup without a subwoofer, if you are running a 2.1 system with a subwoofer, or if you have a more robust home theater setup with one or more subwoofers.
Typically room correction software can help determine the best settings for bass in your system, but this can also be adjusted manually by either increasing the gain of your subwoofer or by raising or decreasing the decibels of specific lower frequencies in the 20 up to 100 Hz range.
Many home theater products will have various ways to adjust E.Q. settings. For example, processors and A.V. receivers will often have E.Q. software that, after running a calibration, will change the E.Q. to best suit the room in which the home theater resides. Additionally, after running E.Q. calibration software, certain speaker levels can often be adjusted to be higher or lower to dial in the sound to your liking.
Some calibration and room correction software will also adjust phase and timing settings for a home theater in addition to general EQ settings. For example, the Dirac Live software included with Emotiva’s XMC-2 and RMC-1L and RMC-1 processors will calibrate the E.Q. for the room and adjust for phase and timing.
Human speech frequencies range from 80 Hz to about 180 Hz for men, whereas women’s voices range from 160 to 250 Hz. By reducing or increasing the decibels within these frequency ranges, you should be able to dial in the correct E.Q. settings for your system and for human voices.
Experimenting with the E.Q. settings within those ranges will allow you to find the best voice settings for your system.
Like Lonnie says in our video Home Theater and Stereo Room Equalization - Parametric EQ Edition
True audiophiles like to refrain from using any equalization in their home theater setup to keep the audio signal quality. An equalizer can help make the frequency response chart of your setup flatter and more neutral across the frequencies.
However, it would help if you were cautious that you don't add too many different filters as that can adjust and change the speakers' imaging. Before the E.Q. enters the system, you need to find the optimum position and direction for the used speaker system to start modifying and maximizing your standard setup output before tweaking. If done correctly, an Equalizer can broadly impact the sound quality of any system in a good way.
It is often unnecessary to use an equalizer, especially in stereo music playback. Some people prefer to keep their music playback as simple as possible without any additional E.Q.
However, others can find it beneficial to add an equalizer to their system to address room layout challenges or change the system’s overall sound. Ultimately, it depends on your needs and what you desire to hear from your system.
Crossovers and equalizers are often confused because they affect your system's frequency response. A crossover is any device that limits the range of frequencies sent to a speaker or amplifier by allowing you to choose which frequencies are sent to which of your speakers.
A crossover network automatically directs the appropriate frequencies to your mids, tweeters, and subwoofers.
Although we do not have any stand-alone equalizers, we have room correction software that ships with most of our processors! You may ask what’s the difference between room E.Q. and calibration.
Room correction has traditionally required a reasonably technical, step-by-step process. However, new solutions are making it much easier and faster for integrators to use these, such as the Dirac room calibration software that comes complimentary with every XMC-2 , RMC-1, RMC-1L processor!
]]>Most subwoofers for home theater are powered units, meaning they have their own built-in amplifier. Most home theater AVRs have a subwoofer pre-out and not a separate amplifier channel for a subwoofer. When choosing a subwoofer or subwoofers that will best compliment your home theater system in your space, there are many factors to consider. This guide will discuss many of those considerations and help you understand what you may be looking for in a subwoofer.
The sound quality of a subwoofer can be determined in several ways. The subwoofer often handles the low-frequency effects (LFE) channel used in movie production, along with bass crossed over from other surround channels. This will be the impact of a kick drum or the rumble of an explosion. The quality of this sound reproduction is often measured in how flat the frequency response is down to its lowest possible point. Many modern subwoofers can reproduce frequencies as low as 20-30Hz. Equal reproduction of different frequencies is essential but not necessarily a determining factor in how a subwoofer will sound. One defining characteristic of subwoofers is how quickly they can respond and recover to an impulse for accurate replication of recorded sounds.
You might have convinced yourself that size doesn't matter, but it does in the world of subwoofers! You can't hide behind your F-350 with this one! The size of your driver and cabinet enclosure will largely determine the depth and volume of your bass. Moving lower bass signals requires an enormous amount of energy; the more extensive the driver, the more power it will handle and the higher volume of air it will be able to move. Larger woofers will have larger cabinet volumes to provide the proper amount of “air-cushion” that the driver needs for optimal performance.
The typical tradeoff in loudspeaker design involving subwoofers is the driver’s area compared to the weight of the speaker cone itself. A larger speaker area will move more air and create higher SPL if all other factors are identical. The weight of a driver and voice coil will affect how quickly a subwoofer can respond to sudden changes in the input signal level.
Because of this, an 8” subwoofer may respond faster than a 15” subwoofer, but the 15” driver has nearly 4 times the active surface area and will move 4 times as much air. Although less common in home theater subwoofers, many subs will have multiple smaller drivers instead of a single large driver. The smaller drivers will respond faster than the large driver but with larger effective combined surface areas.
Most subwoofers you will find are active with an integrated amplifier. This means that the subwoofer can drive itself with a signal input rather than relying on an external amp. You can sometimes find passive subwoofers, but these are not widely used. Subwoofer drivers require a high amount of current to perform best, and low frequencies also require a lot of power to reproduce. In the case of a passive sub, a very powerful external amplifier will be needed.
Bass frequencies are the lowest sounds that we hear. They are often heard or felt as rumbling or impulses like an explosion. Good quality bass should be precise and defined, sounding like it is an extension of your main speakers and not its own separate sound source. People often use multiple subwoofers to help with the delocalization of bass frequencies and fill the listening space.
Subwoofer drivers will behave differently in an enclosure based on several factors. The mechanical compliance of the woofer itself, the cabinet's dimensions, and the cabinet's tuning will all impact the overall sound of the subwoofer.
Completely sealed cabinets will not have any rear-wave radiation from the woofer, instead using the combined volume of air like an assistive spring to help return the driver to its resting position after excursion or compression. This helps sealed subwoofers to maintain a tight and even response down to the lowest frequency capabilities of the driver. Our Airmotiv SE8 Subwoofer and Airmotiv SE12 Subwoofer are great examples of high-performance sealed cabinet subs.
Ported subwoofers, however, utilize the tuned dimensions of the cabinet to assist subwoofers in reproducing lower frequencies and will allow higher SPL levels compared to a sealed sub because of the additional utilization of the rear-wave radiation from the driver. The size and shape of the ported design and cabinet dimensions will affect the subwoofer's frequency response. The Airmotiv RS11 and RS13 are our top performers when it comes to a ported sub design.
Subwoofers are typically placed at the front of a room, between the center speaker and one of the front speakers. Multiple subs can be placed in other points around the room, but it is typically not advised to put subwoofers in the corners. This can cause abnormal bass buildup and accentuate room modes. Some home theaters even have “bass-exciters” attached to a couch or the seats so that the listener feels the shaking bass. Check out our video on how to get amazing bass from your room here: How To Get The Most Bass Out Of Your Room!
Most subs will need to be connected to both a wall outlet and your pre-amplifier. In an average setup, this is accomplished by connecting your sub (using an interconnect cable) to your preamp and, of course, a power cable to the wall. But wouldn't it be cool if you could eliminate the need to connect your sub to your preamp? That would mean a lot fewer cables!
Luckily we offer our VSUB Wireless System so you can place your subwoofer anywhere in your room without needing to be tethered to your preamp or processor!
If you are adding a subwoofer to your stereo or home theater setup, you need to consider how it will be connected to your preamp or AVR. Many preamps and most AVRs have a dedicated subwoofer output terminal that will connect to your sub via a single RCA or XLR cable. It is still possible to add a subwoofer to a stereo system with no sub output. Many subwoofers have high-power inputs that can connect with speaker wire or paired RCA inputs and outputs. The subwoofer can be placed between a preamplifier and the power amplifier.
Subwoofers are great additions to any home theater setup! Whether you want more bass to add to your stereo listening or if you want to hear more of the effects in movies, any of our subwoofers will be a great choice! Check out our amazing performance and high value with our Airmotiv Subwoofers.
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"The Ultimate Speaker and Amplifier Matching Guide" DUN DUN Da DAAAA- I feel like that should have sound effects around it.
Amplifiers and speakers need to be paired appropriately to ensure an efficient, high-quality output from your speakers. It can be difficult to select the perfect pairing of speaker and amplifier without testing out dozens of combinations, but we will cover a few key things you need to know to get you started on the right path.
The amplifier and speaker always work together to reproduce the source audio signal. A speaker cannot operate without some kind of amplifier to drive it, and an amplifier doesn’t do much good without a speaker attached. Because of this two-way relationship, the characteristics of both the speaker and amplifier chosen can affect the quality and character of the reproduced sound. There are no absolutes with speaker-amplifier synergy, but understanding the specifications of each and how they interact can help make choices for amplifier and speaker pairings.
With a nearly infinite number of possible speaker and amplifier combinations available, it can be daunting to narrow down your selections. Below are a few primary characteristics to consider when matching speakers to an amplifier. Again, there is no absolutely “correct” pairing, and there are exceptions to all of these guidelines. But this is a great place to start.
One of the questions we get most often is regarding the power handling of a speaker and what that means when looking at amplifier power specifications. For example, the Emotiva T2+ speakers are rated to handle 200 W continuous or 400 W peak power, but we recommend an amplifier of up to 500 W continuous for those speakers. It seems like such a powerful amplifier could potentially damage the speaker based on these ratings. However, this is not necessarily the case.
Using an amplifier with additional headroom above the speaker's power rating allows the amplifier to operate in a more comfortable range of its power output and have additional power reserves for peak volume and heavy bass content that momentarily require extra power output from the amplifier. The T2+ would only be damaged if you fed it continuous power of over 200 W for some time, which is not realistic in actual listening situations.
It is easier to damage a speaker by pushing an underpowered amplifier past its limit due to a condition known as clipping, which can quickly burn out the tweeter in a speaker or cause other damage.
The sensitivity of a speaker helps us compare the level of sound output you will get from different speakers when fed the same amount of power. This specification is typically given with 1 Watt (2.83 V over an 8 ohm load) of power with output measured 1 Meter from the speaker across the industry.
For example, the Emotiva T2+ is rated at 91dB, while the number for the smaller T1+ is 88dB, both at 2.83V/1M. This means that at 1 Watt of power, you will get 3dB more output from the T2+ than the T1+. This is mainly due to the differences in cabinet volume between the two speakers, but many different factors determine the sensitivity of a speaker.
There is no rule for how many watts are required for a certain sensitivity rating. Still, this specification helps us compare different speakers and point us in the right direction regarding the amplification.
The most crucial aspect of speaker impedance is to ensure that any amplifier you are using can drive the load presented to the amplifier by the speaker. Impedance is most commonly 4 or 8 ohms, but these are nominal values that vary through the speaker's frequency range. A lower impedance requires more amplifier current to maintain the same output level.
Presenting a load that is too low can draw too much current from an amplifier, shorting the output transistors or causing damage to an amplifier. Because total power is a function of voltage and current, the power output of an amplifier is typically rated higher into lower impedances.
We measure sound output by measuring the Sound Pressure Level or SPL of the room that the sound waves are filling. The size of the space that we are trying to pressurize with sound waves plays a vital role in deciding exactly how much power is needed for a particular speaker to fill a room with sound.
For example, a pair of speakers in a 12’ x 15’ space may not require nearly as much power as the same pair of speakers set up in a 25’ x 30’ room to get the same SPL output. When in doubt, choose the more powerful amplifier.
The equipment price should not be the main factor that determines your speaker or amplifier choices. While there is undoubtedly some correlation between price and quality, inexpensive speakers can be paired with more expensive amplifiers and vice versa with excellent results.
Focusing on the speaker’s requirements, the specifications of the amplifier, and how they work together will often lead to better performance than focusing on the price of the equipment alone.
Along with all of the above factors, it is essential to avoid using speakers and amps in ways outside of their intended use or design. For example, amps will have an impedance range that will be stable to use. If the amplifier you are considering is stable down to 4 ohms and your speaker is rated at 2 ohms, these two pieces would not be compatible, and using them together could damage one or both of them.
Some unique speakers may have more specific requirements regarding the particular type of amp that can drive them. If you have doubts or concerns about using an amp and speaker together, it is always best to reach out to the manufacturers to see if they would advise the pairing.
Looking into Emotivas product line, some great pairs to consider are:
Some popular speakers outside of our product line:
Sometimes the best way to find that perfect pairing between speaker and amplifier is to try different combinations until you find the right match for your listening style and taste. The same combinations will not work for everyone because we all perceive sound differently and have different priorities with our audio systems.
There are no absolute rules for matching speakers with amplifiers, which can make the pursuit of perfect sound both frustrating and rewarding. Hopefully, these guidelines can help you get started in the right direction.
]]>Suppose you are using a digital source, yes. If you listen to originally pressed vinyl through a turntable, phono preamp, and headphone amplifier, then no. A DAC is necessary for consuming digital audio, which is the overwhelming majority of available audio content.
Even if you are a vinyl head, the signal has likely encountered a DAC sometime in its life during the recording, mixing, and mastering process before being pressed into a modern record.
Whether you like it or not, you are probably using a DAC integrated into one of your playback devices. You need to ask yourself how your devices are handling digital sources and what digital conversion quality will best suit your needs.
Almost all music signals are recorded and processed as digital information. It is much easier to store, manipulate, and distribute in this domain. However, the music we listen to is an analog voltage amplified and then reproduced by our speakers or headphones. A DAC is needed to convert the digital information to the analog signal that we hear. Additionally, most digital audio is distributed in a compressed format to reduce file size.
DAC is an acronym for Digital to Analog Converter. It converts digital audio information from individually encoded samples into an audio waveform that can be passed on to other devices as an analog signal.
Shannon-Nyquist theorem dictates that the frequency range that can be recreated in the analog domain is precisely half of the sample rate frequency in the digital domain.
Standard CD quality has a sample rate of 44.1 kHz at a bit depth of 16 bits per sample. This translates to a frequency range of 0-22kHz, a maximum signal-to-noise ratio (SNR) of 96dB, and nearly 700 discrete amplitudes per decibel of dynamic range. This frequency range fully encompasses the entirety of the audible spectrum for humans, with over two orders of magnitude exceeding the discernment thresholds of even the most trained ears in dynamic resolution.
The real-world SNR will be slightly diminished due to the limitations of integrated circuits. Modern digital audio for film is standardized at 48kHz/24 bits. This gives a higher range of dynamic resolution with a maximum defined SNR of 144dB. So-called "high-resolution” files will often have even higher sample rates and sometimes a greater bit depth, but this is not what necessarily dictates the resolution of the analog output from a DAC. These files are often distributed in a lossless codec format and will be easier for a DAC to reconstruct perfectly.
This quality of a DAC lies in its ability to determine the exact analog waveform of a signal based on digital information. Many different algorithms are used in interpolating the value of the analog waveform at any given instant in time based on the value of the surrounding samples. Another factor in reconstructing sampled audio is the precision and error rate of the DAC’s internal clock. This error rate is known as 'jitter." The trade-offs used in this operation are based on the cost and time of the associated computational power needed to perform interpolation algorithms of various complexity.
Every digital source you may use will need to encounter a DAC in your chain of equipment before it reaches an amplifier. Any audio equipment that has digital inputs will have an onboard DAC. Still, you may be looking for a higher-quality unit instead of the built-in one and utilize analog inputs on your preamplifier.
An external DAC may operate at specifications better suited for your needs or equipment in these cases. A standalone DAC will always have some form of digital input and analog outputs. These outputs will typically be routed through a preamplifier to regulate the signal voltage amplitude before passing to a power amplifier.
A DAC is a computer that makes its best guess of amplitude value for a continuous signal based on the encoded audio information samples' discrete amplitude values.
The easiest way to imagine this would be by connecting a straight line between two discrete points. When considering audio, simple two-point interpolation would lead to errors in reconstructing the originally recorded and sampled analog signal. The resulting waveform would have distortion and possibly missing information. The original waveform was likely curved in some manner and would more closely match a nonlinear function between those same discrete points.
Simple interpolation techniques can recreate sine waves perfectly at any frequency within the sampling domain but can often have a more challenging time reconstructing transients and more complex waveform patterns.
More sophisticated interpolation techniques use a range of discretely sampled points in time to determine a "best-fit" function that will more closely resemble the originally recorded waveform. These interpolation methods have a higher computational cost but result in a perfectly reconstructed waveform with little to no missing information or distortion.
The accuracy of its internal clock determines the quality of analog conversion that a D.A.C. is capable of and at what rate it can record, interpolate, and reconstruct digital samples of a specified bit depth.
With all this being said, most DACs these days sound decent. Differences tend to be pretty subtle, especially between DACs sharing the same chip or family of chips.
The only way to know what you like the best is to listen to them yourself. Our very own Ego+ DACs are the perfect piece of gear to jump into adding a DAC to your listening experience. We offer both a Big and Little Ego+ which offer slightly different capabilities depending on your system needs!
Check out the Big Ego+ HERE and the Little Ego+ HERE to pick the right one for you.
You can also pick up a pair of our excellent Airmotiv GR1 Reference Headphones to go along with your Ego at a discounted price HERE.
]]>Many speakers used in stereo or home theater setups often fall into two large categories. Bookshelf speakers and tower speakers derive their names from their typical size and positioning in a listening space. Which style of speaker best suits your particular needs is a consideration with many potential factors, from budget, size, to the positioning of your system. The ultimate factor in making this decision depends on what style of speaker will sound the best in your space with your particular goals.
A speaker is typically categorized as a Bookshelf Speaker based on its size, or that it often will need to be placed on a stand or other elevated surface during use, such as a bookshelf, to bring it to the appropriate height for listening. Bookshelf Speakers do not have to be placed on a bookshelf, but this is simply an industry term that denotes a category of speaker that does not sit on the floor. These are often two-way designs, utilizing a woofer and tweeter in a smaller cabinet. However, larger speakers with three or more drivers exist that could still be categorized as Bookshelf Speakers.
A Tower Speaker is sometimes referred to as a floor-standing speaker, as they are meant to be placed directly on the floor during use. Modern Tower Speakers are tall and slim, with cabinet sizes a few times larger than a Bookshelf Speaker and tweeters near ear level. They often include multiple woofers and porting, allowing more significant low-frequency extension and impact. Tower-style speakers often incorporate 3-way crossover designs with a dedicated midrange circuit. This allows each loudspeaker in the tower to operate on a more select frequency range. Tower Speakers will require more consideration with speaker placement, as they require floor space when in use, but they can also be a prominent and attractive feature in your listening space.
Overall, you will have to determine how to spread and divide your budget across the number of speakers needed for your application. Prioritizing the main, front-stage speakers is often the best place to start, making sure you have the main stereo pair and center channel, if applicable, to form a solid foundation to build upon. When completing your system, the choices you make for your main speakers may also help determine what you need as far as subwoofer reinforcement.
In general, one might think that tower speakers, being larger and utilizing more drivers, would be more expensive than bookshelf speakers, and that is often the case when you look at the options within a single brand or line of speakers. However, a bookshelf speaker produced with higher-quality drivers and cabinets will often be more expensive than a lesser-quality tower speaker that may be larger and utilize more drivers. The quality and not just the quantity of parts used in a speaker will determine the overall performance of any speaker. But keep in mind that the price of a speaker alone should not determine how much you enjoy its sound.
Bookshelf speakers and tower speakers typically significantly differ in both footprint and volume. Bookshelf speakers can be much more discrete in any given space but could also take up the same footprint as a pair of tower speakers if placed prominently in the room on speaker stands. Tower speakers have less placement versatility in a room, but the tradeoff is typically a larger and deeper sound. Bookshelf speakers may be enough to fill a small room but could have trouble keeping up with a large listening room. Conversely, tower speakers will be better suited to a larger space but offer a great sound in smaller rooms.
Because of the smaller cabinet and woofer size of a Bookshelf Speaker, the low-frequency response may be somewhat limited in a Bookshelf Speaker, and they are often paired with subwoofers to fill in the low end. However, a Bookshelf Speaker's smaller baffle and fewer drivers can produce a more focused and detailed image. The larger cabinets and greater number of drivers in a Tower Speaker can produce a broader range of frequencies than a smaller speaker. Still, the addition of more drivers can muddy the sound and detract from imaging if not well implemented.
When selecting a speaker for your application, there are excellent examples of both Bookshelf and Tower speakers to fit your listening and space requirements. A tower speaker will require more space in general and may be more of a focal point of your room. Bookshelf speakers may be easier to blend into a room where the speakers will not be one of the main features of the space. But in the end, after considering the requirements and benefits of each type of speaker, the important thing is that you choose a speaker that you enjoy listening to.
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Terminology in the Audio world is often inconsistent and disorganized, and it can be hard to tell what someone is referring to when discussing equipment. When comparing the two side-by-side, amplifiers and receivers are two very different components, but these terms are often misused!
The amplifier does the 'heavy lifting in a home audio setup and adds gain to the signal to drive a pair of speakers. Although receivers typically have an integrated amplifier, more times than not, they do not have as much power as an external power amplifier. This is one reason why Emotiva specializes in separate components!
An amplifier is a device that turns the low voltage signals from your source equipment into a signal with enough voltage gain and current to power one or more passive speakers. In a home theater or stereo setup, the amplifier does the 'heavy lifting' and adds gain to the signal to drive a pair of speakers. An amplifier typically does not handle input switching, source decoding, or volume control responsibilities.
A receiver combines an amplifier and a preamp or processor that may also include other features like an F.M. tuner, all in one box. An A.V. receiver's purpose is to take audio and video signals from various connected sources, process the signals appropriately based on the incoming format and system configuration and then provide a strong enough signal to drive loudspeakers and route the video to a television or video projector. Unlike a Power Amplifier, a receiver typically has volume control and input switching capabilities.
This question is hard to answer as what sounds better to some may not sound the best to everyone. Receivers typically have an internal amplifier; this amplifier is on the weaker side of the spectrum more often than not. This is partly because, by its nature, a receiver is responsible for performing more tasks simultaneously, so there can sometimes be less space and design allotted for amplification, as it is only part of what the receiver does. On the other hand, a dedicated external power amplifier can enable you to drive more watts to your speakers. Of course, more power means you have more dynamic headroom and the ability to have a cleaner, clearer sound than that compared to a receiver or lower-powered amplifier. While this is true in most cases, it is not an absolute fact! Before deciding whether an A.V.R. or separate component setup is best for you, I suggest matching your speakers' wattage and impedance to whatever unit you choose to pair with them!
Which one should you use in your setup? This question depends a lot on your specific configuration and what you need. Do you have a preamp or processor and only need to provide power to your speakers, or do you need a component that can give input switching, audio decoding, volume control, and the power required to drive your speakers? If you only need to power a set of speakers, you will need a power amplifier to pair with your current pre/pro. If you need a head unit for your system, I suggest looking for either an Audio Video Receiver or a Processor.
Referencing the paragraphs above, A.V.R. units rarely have enough power output to properly drive speakers in a home theater or even a two-channel listening setup. Even with all the features compressed in an A.V.R. or receiver, they have never been the top pick for true audiophiles. If you want truly excellent sound quality from your audio equipment, I suggest leaning towards a power amplifier. On the other hand, a receiver is better if you don't want the hassle of setting up separate components. A receiver is also for those who have limited space in their living rooms or home theaters.
Even if you are looking to upgrade your sound system and continue to use your existing A.V.R., we can help with our extensive range of amplifiers. If your A.V.R. has preamplifier outputs (pre-outs), it would be compatible with an external amplifier. A standard upgrade is to power the front three channels of a home theater system externally with an external amp. This creates a clean power source for the most influential speakers in your system and takes a large portion of the power load off an existing A.V.R.'s integrated amps. Alternatively, a complete amplification upgrade with a 5 or 7-channel amplifier or even more would provide more robust power and a cleaner sound to your entire system.
You can read more about power amplifiers on our website here: https://emotiva.com/collections/amps. -
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